ERHAPS it shouldn't have come as any surprise that when Alain Ducasse decided to open the seventh branch of his Spoon restaurant, following success in such outposts as Paris, London and St.-Tropez, he turned to Tunis, perhaps North Africa's most Europeanized city. Its high-rise office buildings obstruct the views from medina rooftops and donkeys have long been replaced by BMW's. Many of the city's best restaurants and nightclubs cater not only to well-heeled tourists from Europe and elsewhere but also to Tunis's own middle and upper classes.

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